Gardening

I do the same thing. I love looking at all the vegetable seeds and flipping through the seed catalogs. My brain always has big ideas about putting out a big garden and canning again. I have it all visualized in my head, as I look at the seeds; beautiful rows of luscious vegetables. Then that little speech bubble above my head pops, and brings me back to reality.🤦‍♀️

:ROFLMAO: I was just outside looking at the three Earthbox garden containers; they all need a heavy clean and fresh or amended soil. It made me tired just thinking about it so I probably won't bother unless I get a burst of energy. As with many things "the anticipation is greater than the event."
 
I am working on transplanting some of the herb starts (oregano, basil, thyme) from the aerogarden and into pots where we can have them on the porch. I have one container out and when I put up a smaller one….. right away, the cats were playing on the porch this morning and dumped it, and broke the planter pot.
I saved the plants and as much as I could of the potting soil, and replanted it in a different pot.

Bobby and I discussed the situation, because as long as we have kitties playing on the porch, they will keep bumping the planters and knocking them off the edge. We have lost a lot of plants and planters this way over the years, so we decided that maybe getting the hanging basket planters would work, and they will look pretty hanging on the porch railings, too.

I found some on Amazon that come in a set of 8, all different colors, and under $2 apiece, so a great price. I can put some of the smaller plants in these, and plants that cascade over the side will be ideal for the hanging baskets.

IMG_1509.jpeg
 
I am working on transplanting some of the herb starts (oregano, basil, thyme) from the aerogarden and into pots where we can have them on the porch. I have one container out and when I put up a smaller one….. right away, the cats were playing on the porch this morning and dumped it, and broke the planter pot.
I saved the plants and as much as I could of the potting soil, and replanted it in a different pot.

Bobby and I discussed the situation, because as long as we have kitties playing on the porch, they will keep bumping the planters and knocking them off the edge. We have lost a lot of plants and planters this way over the years, so we decided that maybe getting the hanging basket planters would work, and they will look pretty hanging on the porch railings, too.

I found some on Amazon that come in a set of 8, all different colors, and under $2 apiece, so a great price. I can put some of the smaller plants in these, and plants that cascade over the side will be ideal for the hanging baskets.

View attachment 848
Those small white hanging baskets/pots are popular here, and we put together quite a few for sale. Older ladies seem to like them as they are easy to handle and fit in a lot of places that larger ones do not.
 
SEED STARTING METHODS / QUESTIONS

It use to be seeds were "cheaper than dirt." Seed starting soil has always been more costly than the seeds. Going back a few years seeds package cost a dollar or less, and you would get 100 or more seeds. New varieties would be a little higher but still affordable. Today prices are up and quanity is down. I have even seen some seed go for $1per seed. That's why when I see sales for seeds I take advantage of it.
To assure some germination when planting seeds if they are older then 1 year, I'll drop 2 or more in the pot, depending on age of seed, I might drop a few.

I will get multiple germination in one pot. For most plants I want to keep one plant per pot, so I will "pull" the excess plants.

The method I use to transplant excess seedlings, is to soak the pot then gently pull the seedlings out with my fingers, dip the root into hormone powder than plant in a wet waiting pot. Seedlings could be dug out with a spoon, I find it disrupts the roots of the plants you are leaving.

I like to keep my seedlings damp, but I do dry out the pots about once a week for a short period. I believe it helps avoid "damping off", there might be algae or moss on the soil, but this has never hurt my plants, and cultivating the soil gently keeps it under control.

The one thing I have never found is a fertilizer strictly for seedlings. I have used the fish emulsion, and a deluded Miracle Grow. The results were just okay. I just read that worm casting is the best for seedlings, it give healthy stems, and plants. I just found it in liquid form, I'm thinking of trying it.

I am open to any advice.
 
Some seeds are just difficult to sprout and I sometimes resort to the paper towel method for germination. Place several seeds in a folded paper towel and mist with water; place damp towel inside a baggie and keep in a warm spot for several days till you see sprouts. Move the tiny sprouted seeds to damp potting medium.

Some seeds benefit from cold storage; place them in the refrigerator to chill for several days before planting.
 
Some seeds are just difficult to sprout and I sometimes resort to the paper towel method for germination. Place several seeds in a folded paper towel and mist with water; place damp towel inside a baggie and keep in a warm spot for several days till you see sprouts. Move the tiny sprouted seeds to damp potting medium.

Some seeds benefit from cold storage; place them in the refrigerator to chill for several days before planting.
I use to a similar method when I had seed difficult to germinate. I also had to stratify some seeds also. Sometimes scarificattion was required.
 

I found on-line a fertilizer for seedlings by Espoma, a company I had a lot of sucess with in the past.​

Espoma Bio-tone Starter Plus Organic Granules Plant Food​

The only thing is I prefer a liquid fertilizer.
 
@Tony Page we are kindred souls. I have read that some seed germination is retarded by chemical fertilizers. That is why seed starting mixes generally have no fertilizer in them. A general recommendation is that plants need no fertilizer until the first true leaves develop, but I usually begin feeding shortly before that, and use fertilizer--both organic or chemical--at no stronger than 1/4 the recommended dilution. That is why I use a hydroponic solution fertilizer on my seedlings as I can measure it with a syringe. I use fish emulsion as well on some plants, but only in very dilute quantities at first. Slow release fertilizers like some organics and Osmocote-types are good once the plants are well-established and in permanent homes, especially in hanging pots or baskets. Eleanor's VF-11 is good on seedlings if you can get it. It is no longer available in Alaska and I don't know if it is still made. Eleanor's is a good additive for foliar feeding if you have a spray program of any kind. I use a neem oil spray weekly in my greenhouses to keep aphids and other pests at bay. It also reduces fungal diseases.

Have you ever tried a salicylate spray on tomatoes? It is said to reduce disease problems of all kinds in tomatoes. Just an uncoated aspirin or two in a gallon of water sprayed on the plants before disease issues appear.
 
@Tony Page we are kindred souls. I have read that some seed germination is retarded by chemical fertilizers. That is why seed starting mixes generally have no fertilizer in them. A general recommendation is that plants need no fertilizer until the first true leaves develop, but I usually begin feeding shortly before that, and use fertilizer--both organic or chemical--at no stronger than 1/4 the recommended dilution. That is why I use a hydroponic solution fertilizer on my seedlings as I can measure it with a syringe. I use fish emulsion as well on some plants, but only in very dilute quantities at first. Slow release fertilizers like some organics and Osmocote-types are good once the plants are well-established and in permanent homes, especially in hanging pots or baskets. Eleanor's VF-11 is good on seedlings if you can get it. It is no longer available in Alaska and I don't know if it is still made. Eleanor's is a good additive for foliar feeding if you have a spray program of any kind. I use a neem oil spray weekly in my greenhouses to keep aphids and other pests at bay. It also reduces fungal diseases.
By
Have you ever tried a salicylate spray on tomatoes? It is said to reduce disease problems of all kinds in tomatoes. Just an uncoated aspirin or two in a gallon of water sprayed on the plants before disease issues appear.
Yes I have used aspirin deluded in water on my tomatoes once they are established. Many years ago I sprayed most of my tomatoes with it, but ran out and left a few w/o spray. The ones with no spray got blossom end rot, the other had minimal cases.
I don't fertilize my seedlings until the true leaves have developed. This year I'm trying liquid worm casting.
I have not heard of Eleanor's VF-11.

Yes I use sterile unfertilized seed starting soil.

Good info Don.
 
Good afternoon to all-

Let me start by saying that down here on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, growing tomatoes is a very frustrating and usually non-productive activity.

tomatoes down here suffer from a wide range of disease, and it never gets cold enough in winter to kill or even slow the insect pests which devour our tomatoes.

And the weather? We get warm very early- it's 80 degrees here today- and the night temperatures stay well above 70 from April on, so fruit doesn't set. We get fruit set, growing well, and then a heavy rain comes and the set-tomatoes just explode from too much water.

It's frustrating, because I love some home-grown tomatoes.

but having said that, let me assure you I have tomato seedlings almost ready to set out, and I am going to try large pots with sterile soil and see if that will work- the REAL soil here just won't grow 'em.

you all be safe and keep well- Ed
 
Good afternoon to all-

Let me start by saying that down here on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, growing tomatoes is a very frustrating and usually non-productive activity.

tomatoes down here suffer from a wide range of disease, and it never gets cold enough in winter to kill or even slow the insect pests which devour our tomatoes.

And the weather? We get warm very early- it's 80 degrees here today- and the night temperatures stay well above 70 from April on, so fruit doesn't set. We get fruit set, growing well, and then a heavy rain comes and the set-tomatoes just explode from too much water.

It's frustrating, because I love some home-grown tomatoes.

but having said that, let me assure you I have tomato seedlings almost ready to set out, and I am going to try large pots with sterile soil and see if that will work- the REAL soil here just won't grow 'em.

you all be safe and keep well- Ed
You should be able to grow tomatoes @Edfrombama. Many in the South think they cannot garden in summer, but I successfully did it in South Georgia for a number of years. It does take effort however, as you have to regulate soil temperature and water.
 
Yes I have used aspirin deluded in water on my tomatoes once they are established. Many years ago I sprayed most of my tomatoes with it, but ran out and left a few w/o spray. The ones with no spray got blossom end rot, the other had minimal cases.
I don't fertilize my seedlings until the true leaves have developed. This year I'm trying liquid worm casting.
I have not heard of Eleanor's VF-11.

Yes I use sterile unfertilized seed starting soil.

Good info Don.
Here is a link to the fertilizer mentioned. I found it most useful for young seedlings and as a foliar fertilizer. When I last checked, they didn't ship to Alaska, but they may ship to New York or you might find it locally.

 
You should be able to grow tomatoes @Edfrombama. Many in the South think they cannot garden in summer, but I successfully did it in South Georgia for a number of years. It does take effort however, as you have to regulate soil temperature and water.

Good afternoon to all-
Oh, I don't give up on 'maters, but I assure you, it is very difficult.
Even the "Naster Gardeners" in this area don't succeed much.

And it's HARD to regulate water when we get rainfall measured in feet- not inches- during the spring and summer...

but, as I said, I'm not going to give up.

you all be safe and keep well- Ed
 
Good afternoon to all-
Oh, I don't give up on 'maters, but I assure you, it is very difficult.
Even the "Naster Gardeners" in this area don't succeed much.

And it's HARD to regulate water when we get rainfall measured in feet- not inches- during the spring and summer...

but, as I said, I'm not going to give up.

you all be safe and keep well- Ed
A perforated plastic mulch will keep things from getting too wet and a foot or so of straw or other mulch will keep the temp down if there is trickle irrigation beneath it. Variety selection is the toughest part, and you may not be able to grow your favorites. Tropic is a variety I used with some success but there may be others now, as that was years ago. Shade cloth can help as well.
 
This I posted on another site.

Something about seedlings I've noticed and I just read an article about it and my thoughts about it are correct. I like to store unused seeds, some of my seeds date back to 2008. What I've noticed is the older the seed the longer it takes to germinate. Old seeds that take 7-10 days to germinate, may take 3-4 weeks.
 
A perforated plastic mulch will keep things from getting too wet and a foot or so of straw or other mulch will keep the temp down if there is trickle irrigation beneath it. Variety selection is the toughest part, and you may not be able to grow your favorites. Tropic is a variety I used with some success but there may be others now, as that was years ago. Shade cloth can help as well.
Have you considered a green house?
 
You should be able to grow tomatoes @Edfrombama. Many in the South think they cannot garden in summer, but I successfully did it in South Georgia for a number of years. It does take effort however, as you have to regulate soil temperature and water.

I live 40 miles from the Gulf of America and I have no problem grown tomatoes at all. Seems strange that anyone living in a semi-tropical environment would have difficulty growing tomatoes of all things. And of course, my farming family in south Georgia grows fields (and tons) of tomatoes for the commercial market.
 
Have you considered a green house?
I was trying to give ED advice, but he is not listening. He probably doesn't need a greenhouse, as he claims it is too hot to garden on the South during the summer. Having gardened in a LOT of regions, I can tell him that gardening here is FAR HARDER than the Gulf Coast. I have 4 greenhouses here, as they are needed to grow many varieties of tomatoes, most peppers and large cucumbers. In northern Alaska, they have to use greenhouses or cold frames even to grow broccoli or cauliflower, although they can grow lettuce outside.
 
I live 40 miles from the Gulf of America and I have no problem grown tomatoes at all. Seems strange that anyone living in a semi-tropical environment would have difficulty growing tomatoes of all things. And of course, my farming family in south Georgia grows fields (and tons) of tomatoes for the commercial market.
I suspect Ed is just not much of a gardener. He claims the master gardeners in his area can't grow stuff there either, and I just don't believe that. In the area of Georgia where I lived, they grew mostly cucumbers and watermelons in summer and cabbage and such in the winter.
 
I suspect Ed is just not much of a gardener. He claims the master gardeners in his area can't grow stuff there either, and I just don't believe that. In the area of Georgia where I lived, they grew mostly cucumbers and watermelons in summer and cabbage and such in the winter.
Georgia, Alabama and most of Florida you put a stick in the ground and wait for it to grow. In Texas we did ok. In Oklahoma we have struggled. Temperatures fluctuate like crazy. It is windy! Nothing but weeds grows without irrigation. I do miss a lot of herbs but not enough to move to Georgia.
Ed should have no problem growing tomatoes in big pots, plants mounded up, sun screen. Our tomatoe pots are about 35 inches wide, rebar makes great stakes, when they get ratty in August they get pulled.
 
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