"Tech Talk", or "Hobbies"? Bit of both. A few pics of the "rat's nest dilemma" I'm delving into. Keep getting "Check Engine Light", same trouble code all the time, having to do with one Oxygen Sensor. There are 4, so first, I replaced them all. Had 2 codes before now 1 as before. I am now into the underhood fuse box, checking wiring from there to the computer, then to the offending Oxygen Sensor. Fuse side of the "Battery Junction Box". Back side of the box. Probing two of the three computer connectors. Each has 50 connections! The needles inserted into the connector, capped by colored plastic tips, are actually blowgun darts I saved from one of my adventures in Missouri. They just fit in the connector, relieving the need (yet) for cutting wires. Biggest problem so far? The wiring color codes for the most part are accurate, per the Shop Manual, but some wires are the wrong color! I marvel at the thought the Dealer's Techs can troubleshoot this crap! Frank
Pardon me but you have given me a headache with this thread. Do you know that I never open my car's hood? Even my husband doesn't have that habit of checking what's under the hood like in the olden days. Our reason is that our cars are well-maintained by the car dealer's maintenance shop and checking it every day is not needed anymore. And with that thing you call battery junction box, I am a loss of what it's all about. But anyway, I admire your patience and perseverance in tinkering with those electronic gadgets.
I'm pretty sure I don't even know how to open my new car's hood. I just had oil changed and tires rotated and everything else checked a few weeks ago. Everything is good! Cost about $50 and well worth it for me.
Frank, you are starting to sound like Indiana Jones! Tell us about your blowgun darts from your Missouri Adventure!
Interesting. Another blowgun aficionado. I missed that in my first read. I own blowguns in all three calibers. I bought them to play with in my apartment because we're not allowed guns of any kind. We might shoot our eye out. I haven't messed with mine in quite awhile. Don't know if I got enough wind to penetrate a can at 30 feet anymore. I'll have to check it out.
Lets hear about your blowgun exploits. Get any game with yours? I always wanted to try hunting with one but never did.
You have a lot more patience than I, @Frank Sanoica. Probably a lot more know how, as well. I'd love to be able to diagnose and repair my vehicle. Maybe that will happen in my next life, but if I do come back again, I hope to have more money, and then I'd pay someone to fix the problems.
@Gary Ridenour Ford Explorer XLT 2004, the "3rd. Generation", made 2001 to 2005. First Explorer to employ independent rear suspension instead of a solid rear axle. I owned 2 of the 2nd. Gen., a '96, and a '99. Both were pretty good vehicles. @2nd. Gen. used torsion bars instead of coil springs in front suspension, a feature I did not care too much for.
OK Frank a code scanner would be helpful here as it may be a faulty code. usually this light ticks on because of the emission control system. best answer: Just remove the negative battery cable and turn on the switch to drain any leftover power stored in any compacitors. Replace the cable and you are good to go. If you still have a service light then you have a legitimate problem. When you disconnct the battery, you are going to have to reset a number of functions that have been stored by your computer. The better way to go is to purchase or borrow an OBD II Scanner or reader. This allows you to see what the trouble code is at the same time being able to reset the service light. By the way, these scanners are relatively inexpensive and it's an excellent tool to own. The scanner has a simple one-plug attachment and it fits into the scan port under the left-hand side of your dash. It walks you through each of the steps required. I had the same problem on my 2005 Explorer and by using the scanner, I was able to shut my light off in a matter of two minutes.
Whenever I have a check engine light or anything like that I just take it to Advanced Auto and they put their code reader on it, and it tells me generally what is wrong. I have had an EGR valve that has needed to be replaced for years. Itt might help with the gas mileage, but it doesn't seem to affect the running of the car that much so I haven't bothered to replace it. The only thing they can't seem to detect is the loose wire or whatever it is that are causing the weird electrical malfunctions. Someone said it may need a new instrument panel. of course that costs a bundle...I don't think so!